Q: I had terrible luck with multiple seeds/starts in my garden beds this year. I think it is my soil but I’m not sure what to do about it.
The soil is two to three years old, a mix from a bulk company. I admit I do not think I have added compost to them ever. In a panic I top dressed and even mixed in some bagged compost late in the season (June I think).
The only plants that have really done well are my tomatoes (top dressed with compost) and sweet peas (no tilling, composting, anything). There is one bed with new soil and, as you can see, the sunflowers took off wonderfully. To illustrate the difference, I included a picture of a bed with the older soil where a different kind of sunflower that was planted from seed the same day is doing terribly, despite having mixed compost in late in the season.
Other things I have had fail in the old soil beds: zucchini seeds (1 to 2 years old), kale seeds (new), kale starts (from a friend), cucumber starts, carrot seeds (packed for 2020), radish seeds (packed for 2020), dill starts, cilantro starts. I even have some new herb starts that are growing more slowly than I would have expected (sage, lavender, rosemary, thyme) though they are growing.
I did try using bagged fertilizer for starts in multiple beds according to the directions. It did not seem to make a difference. There is a large sequoia in the neighbor’s yard. I wonder if the needles from this tree are playing a role.
Should I get my soil tested? Amend more? I have never had such poor outcomes. I planted different things in these beds than have been planted in the past one to two years. – Multnomah County
A: It's frustrating to work so hard to get vegetables to grow and get disappointing results. Having a soil analysis done would give you especially useful information, particularly if you test the new soil separately from the old soil, so you can compare them. The analysis will tell you how much organic matter is in each sample, the pH, quantities of nutrients nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium and other properties of your soil. If you elect to pay an additional couple of dollars, they will recommend how to fix problems in your soil. A soil analysis is not at all expensive, and will save you money by letting you know exactly what your soil needs. There are several labs that do soil analyses, but A&L Labs has offices in the Portland area.
Improving our soil is an ongoing, important part of our work as gardeners. It means that our gardens improve every year. And it doesn't take much.
One addition to your raised beds that will really help improve your soil is organic mulch; 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch covers the soil, retarding soil surface evaporation and keeping soil moist and the roots cooler. Mulch blocks the light from developing weeds so they don't compete with your vegetables. Finally, mulch, as it's broken down, adds organic matter to your soil. This article has good information on Improving Soil with Organic Matter.
For now, spread 2 to 4 inches of loose, organic mulch (woodchips, bark, compost) under your plants. Keep them well watered, about 1.5 inches of water once a week, more often during hot periods. Give them a boost of organic fertilizer, which is slow release. They may surprise you. This article has excellent advice on gardening in our unique climate in western Oregon, Vegetable Gardening in Oregon. – Anne Schmidt, OSU Extension master gardener
Time to divide, replant iris
Q: At the end of season when iris flowers are long gone, do you cut green leaves to ground or just the brown ones? – Benton County
A: Remove the dead leaves. Fall is the time to cut the leaves back. September or October is when you cut them back to six inches, not to the ground. Now is the time to divide your iris and replant your iris or to plant new varieties. – Debbie Lauer, OSU Extension master gardener
Release or kill this giant root borer?
- I found this bug on my front porch window screen. I believe it is a giant root borer. Should I kill it or let it go? OSU Extension ServiceOSU Extension Service
Q: I found this bug on my front porch window screen. I believe it is a giant root borer. Should I kill it or let it go? – Yamhill County
A: I think that you are right about the ID.
As far as killing or releasing this beetle goes, since this is a native species and I don’t live very close to an orchard or hops yard, I would release it. They can be considered pests by agricultural producers, though, so it is a judgment call. It is unlikely that releasing or killing this one individual will have much of an effect on local populations of these beetles one way or another, so do what feels right to you. – William Gerth, faculty research assistant, OSU Plant Clinic
How to save rhododendron from blackberries?
Q: What is the best way to kill blackberries that are growing in the middle of a large rhododendron? – Tillamook County
A: I would simply cut them to the ground and keep cutting them back so there is no leaf area. It will take longer but trying to apply a chemical like Triclopyr (more effective than glyphosate on blackberries) could affect the rhododendron. By preventing leaf growth, you are “starving” the plant of its ability to photosynthesize for that growth. It may take two to three years for the plant to use up all stored energy in the roots. If you choose to use an herbicide, you can apply the product containing Triclopyr directly to the freshly cut stems with a paintbrush to minimize possible contamination of your rhododendron. Please be sure to read all directions and safety precautions so you can follow them during the application. – Sara Running, OSU Extension master gardener
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