Two grilling methods are all you need to cook summer’s bounty, from broccoli to asparagus, cauliflower to tomatoes. Even leafy greens benefit from a brief turn on the grill.
The summer grilling season is upon us, and so are the vegetables. When it comes to cooking summer’s bounty, it’s hard to surpass an open fire. Grilling maximizes a vegetable’s flavor, with minimal effort and a decided measure of showmanship. No one gathers around a stove to watch you boil or steam broccoli. But sear that broccoli over a hot fire on the grill, and you both become stars of the show.
The ultimate reason to grill vegetables is taste: Fire almost always makes them taste better. The high, dry heat of the grill caramelizes a vegetable’s sugars, intensifying its sweetness. Grilling imparts a subtle but inimitable smoke flavor, which adds complexity and soulfulness to a vegetable’s already vibrant taste.
But which vegetable and what’s the best way to grill it? Here, the story becomes a bit more complicated — just a bit — because while virtually every vegetable can be grilled, not all should be cooked the same way.
The key to grilling virtually any vegetable is the mastery of two basic methods and a couple of easy, though specialized, techniques.
Direct Grilling
This is most of what the world means by grilling, and as the name suggests, it involves cooking your vegetables directly over a fire. Use this method for grilling soft, moist vegetables, like zucchini and mushrooms; leafy ones, like bok choy and kale; slender stalks, such as asparagus and broccolini; and sliced ones, from eggplant to onions. Keep the fire hot — 450 to 600 degrees — and the grilling time brief — 2 to 4 minutes per side.
To set up a charcoal grill for direct grilling, light your charcoal (I prefer lump) in a chimney starter, then rake the glowing coals across the bottom of your grill, mounded more thickly at the back (your hot or searing zone), more thinly in the center (your medium or cooking zone), leaving the front third of your grill coal free (your cool or safety zone, where you can dodge flare-ups and keep cooked vegetables warm for serving). This is called a tiered, or multizone, fire; you control the cooking by moving the vegetable toward or away from the hot zone.
On a gas grill, set one or two burners on high, one or two burners on medium, and leave one or two burners off for your safety zone. Adjust the top and bottom vents on a kamado-style cooker to obtain a temperature of 450 to 600 degrees. Owners of the pellet grill should follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Moist Vegetables
Avocados, bell peppers, corn, leeks, mushrooms, summer squash, tomatoes and zucchini
Cut thicker vegetables, like avocados (botanically speaking, a fruit, but treated as a vegetable) and zucchini in half lengthwise; leave thinner vegetables whole. When grilling corn, remove the husk and silk (lest the corn steam, not grill). Brush with olive oil or melted butter, season with coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper, and grill until darkly browned on all sides.
Leafy Greens
Kale, chard, bok choy and sturdy lettuces like iceberg and romaine
Brush flat leaves with extra-virgin olive oil or sesame oil, season well with salt and freshly ground black pepper, dust with minced garlic or sesame seeds, and direct grill over medium-high heat until browned and crisp. Larger leafy vegetables, such as bok choy, Swiss chard and head lettuce, should be halved or quartered lengthwise, oiled, seasoned and charred over a hot fire. When grilling lettuce, work quickly: You want to singe the outside leaves while leaving the center cool and crisp.
Slender Vegetables
Asparagus, green beans, scallions, snap peas and okra
A raft technique popular in Japan ensures these won’t fall through the grates. Lay four or five asparagus stalks (fibrous stem ends snapped off), whole okra pods, snap peas, and the like, side by side and pin them crosswise at the top and bottom with toothpicks to make rafts. Brush with sesame or another oil, season with salt and pepper, or your favorite barbecue or Cajun rub (the latter goes great on okra), and direct grill until darkly browned and tender. Check doneness by squeezing between your thumb and forefinger: asparagus or okra should be gently yielding. Broccolini, which is terrific direct grilled, does not need to be rafted.
Sliced Vegetables
Broccoli, onions, eggplant, fennel and sweet potatoes
Cut crosswise on a diagonal into ½-inch-thick slices (broccoli should be cut into florets; pin onion slices with toothpicks to keep them from falling apart). Brush with extra-virgin olive oil or melted butter, season well with salt and pepper, sprinkle with chopped fresh or dried herbs (mint is killer) and direct grill until browned and tender. An additional drizzle of olive oil before serving amps up the flavor even more.
Parboiled Vegetables
Beets and artichokes
With meat (especially ribs), barbecue pros discourage parboiling, but with hard or fibrous vegetables, like beets and artichokes, a plunge in salted boiling water works wonders. Boil beets whole (until tender enough to pierce with a skewer — 20 to 30 minutes), then cool and slice for grilling. With artichokes, trim the spines off the leaves and cut in half lengthwise, then boil until almost tender (6 to 10 minutes). Scoop out the thistly “choke” with a spoon, brush the artichoke with extra-virgin olive oil and grill over a screaming hot fire until browned on all sides. If you do this right, the leaves become crackling crisp.
Indirect Grilling
So, how do you grill large, firm or dense vegetables that take more time to cook, such as acorn squash, potatoes (baking or sweet) or whole cauliflower? With indirect grilling, a method in which you cook the vegetable next to, not directly over the fire, with the grill lid closed to capture the heat. (Added benefit: You can add hardwood chips or chunks to the fire to generate wood smoke.) Indirect grilling is generally done at medium to medium-high heat (350 to 400 degrees) and for the following vegetables takes 40 to 60 minutes.
To set up a charcoal grill for indirect grilling, light the coals in a chimney, then rake the hot coals into two piles at opposite sides of the grill with a foil drip pan between them. The vegetable is indirect grilled in the center over the drip pan.
On a gas grill, light the outside or front and rear burners and do your indirect grilling over the unlit burner or burners in the center.
On a kamado-style cooker, insert the heat diffuser plate — ceramic in most models, metal in some — to block direct exposure to the fire. The pellet grill set up is, by default, indirect.
Winter Squash
Acorn, butternut and other dense squash
Cut in half (cut acorn widthwise; butternut lengthwise) and scoop out the seeds. Generously brush the cut sides with melted butter, season well and indirect grill at medium heat (350 degrees) until tender. Use a slender metal skewer to test for doneness. A drizzle of maple syrup or honey is always welcome. So is a stuffing made with sautéed shallots or leeks, raisins, nuts, and grated cheese.
Tubers
Potatoes, yams and sweet potatoes
Scrub well and dry, then pierce in a few places with a fork. Brush the outside with oil, melted butter, or bacon or duck fat. Season generously and indirect grill at medium-high heat (400 degrees) until the skins are crisp and the centers soft and creamy (test with a skewer).
Root Vegetables
Carrots, parsnips and sunchokes
Scrub well (no need to peel) and dry, then place in a cast iron skillet or aluminum foil pan with butter or olive oil, or both; a half-dozen unpeeled garlic cloves or halved shallots; fresh herbs, if desired; and of course, salt and pepper, or your favorite barbecue rub. Indirect grill at 400 degrees until sizzling, browned and tender, stirring every 5 to 8 minutes, about 40 minutes in all. I call this technique pan-grilling, and the last five minutes or so, I like to move the pan directly over the heat to further brown and crisp the veggies. Note: You can grill carrots whole or cut into 2-inch pieces. (Cut other root vegetables into 1-inch chunks.)
Firm Brassicas
Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, kohlrabi and Romanesco
Cut brussels sprouts in half; cabbage, kohlrabi, and Romanesco in quarters, and indirect grill in cast iron or a foil pan as described above. Stir every 5 to 8 minutes so the pieces brown evenly. I like to think of whole cauliflower as the pork shoulder of the vegetable kingdom (e.g., a roast): parboil in salted water for 8 minutes, then drain, brush with butter or oil, and indirect grill directly on the grate until browned and tender.
Techniques
Smoking
Tomatoes and avocados
When indirect grilling, you can add hardwood chunks or chips (soak the latter in water for 30 minutes, then drain, to slow combustion) to the fire to produce a flavor indispensable to true barbecue: wood smoke. Smoking works particularly well for moist vegetables, such as tomatoes and avocados. Cut in half, season well, and indirect grill next to your wood-enhanced fire until the vegetable is lightly bronzed with smoke (8 to 12 minutes). Until you’ve experienced a smoked tomato gazpacho or smoked guacamole, you haven’t fully feasted.
Ember Grilling
Eggplants, bell peppers and onions
Ember grilling probably the world’s oldest vegetable grilling technique and it’s well-suited to people who are prone to burning their food on the grill. When grilling on embers, you not only can burn your vegetables, but you should. The charred skins impart a haunting smoke flavor. The best vegetables for the ember treatment are eggplants, bell peppers and onions.
Start with a charcoal or wood fire and rake the embers into an even layer. Lay the eggplants, peppers or onions directly on the coals and grill until charred pitch black on the outside and tender inside (test with a slender metal skewer), 3 to 5 minutes per side, turning four times with long-handled tongs. Transfer to a metal sheet pan to cool, then scrape off the charred skins with a paring knife.
Turn that smoked eggplant into the world’s best baba ghanouj (purée in a food processor with garlic, olive oil, lemon juice, tahini, salt and pepper). Seed and sliver the peppers and drizzle with oil, vinegar and chopped fresh herbs to serve as a salad. Cut the onion in half and lavish it with butter and balsamic vinegar. Or chop all three ember-roasted vegetables to make an Armenian-style salad, which you season with olive oil, lemon juice, minced garlic and parsley, and an optional but most welcomed dollop of tahini.
Recipes: Grilled Corn With Sesame-Soy Butter | Grilled Okra With Cajun Remoulade | Grilled Zucchini Ribbons
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How to Grill Vegetables - The New York Times
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