During this season of awakening, chefs are clearly in the mood to show what they can do with produce, seasonal or otherwise.
It is clearly not tomato season yet in New York City, but nonetheless chef Masaya Shirai, formerly of Sushi Azabu and now the chef of the new Towa, shows what he can do with the fruit anyway by steeping it in dashi and then serving it in a dashi jelly with chia seeds and passion fruit.
At Brassica at the Waldorf Astoria Atlanta Buckhead, executive chef Christophe Le Métayer is treating vegetables (and mushrooms) like precious jewels, gently sautéing and glazing them and charging $24 for them.
In Mesa, Ariz., pizzaiolo Myke Olsen of Myke’s Pizza is highlighting local baby kale by putting it on pizza with raisins, charred lemon relish and Idiazabal cheese, and in Palm Springs, Calif., at Trio, chef Philip Martin is dressing simmered vegetables (and mushrooms) in a broken vinaigrette to accompany Chilean Sea Bass.
And finally at Boca in Cincinnati, lead bartender Morgan Elzey is using coconut, basil and ginger for a cocktail thickened with oat milk and aquafaba.
Contact Bret Thorn at [email protected]
Follow him on Twitter: @foodwriterdiary
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April 30, 2022 at 03:23AM
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